The Elements of Drawing - Exercise 2 (Take 2)

Mistletoe
The Elements of Drawing - Exercise 2
Ink on Paper
23cm x 16.5cm (9" x 6.5")

This is my second go at Exercise 2 from John Ruskin’s The Elements of Drawing (see The Elements of Drawing - Exercise 2). I followed the same variation of the exercise as last time:

Chose an illustration from British Phænogamous Botany; Or, Figures and Description of The Genera of British Flowering Plants. 

Viscum_Album, Mistletoe

Copied the outline as closely as I could with a soft pencil on to a piece of scrap paper.

Mistletoe
The Elements of Drawing - Exercise 2
Pencil on Paper
23cm x 16.5cm (9" x 6.5")

Used Gimp (a free image editing package) to compare my drawing (in red) with the original.

Assessing Outline 1

Corrected my outline based on the feedback from the comparison. 

Made another comparison and repeated the correct and compare steps until I reached a reasonable level of accuracy (this is my fifth and final version).

Assessing Outline 5

Transferred my drawing to a clean piece of paper (using a lightbox) and then drew over it in ink (the outline at the top of the post is the result).

The exercise provides good practice for drawing by eye. It offers an opportunity to think about and test different strategies to obtain an accurate result.

For the last step, Ruskin suggests:

rest your hand on a book about an inch and a half thick, so as to hold the pen long; and go over your pencil outline with ink, raising your pen point as seldom as possible, and never leaning more heavily on one part of the line than on another.

I can’t get on with resting my hand on a book. In my first attempt I contrived a hand position which allowed me to “hold the pen long” while lightly resting my wrist on the paper. This time I didn’t rest my hand on anything. I tried to draw from my shoulder and maintain the slow control that Ruskin demands. The crux (for me) is to hold the pen so that it barely touches the paper. This allows it to easily move in any direction without catching on the paper. I am still using a fineliner - which is cheating because it is far move forgiving than a nib and less likely to catch or cause a blot if you hesitate.

The Elements of Drawing - Exercise 2

Wild Tulip
The Elements of Drawing - Exercise 2
Ink on Paper
25cm x 10cm (10" x 4")

Exercise 2 from John Ruskin’s The Elements of Drawing is about copying an outline drawing of a plant.

Ruskin recommends Baxter's British Flowering Plants.

I found on online copy of British Phænogamous Botany; Or, Figures and Description of The Genera of British Flowering Plants by William Baxter, but it’s not very inspiring. The illustrations aren’t just outlines. Most of the drawings have hatch line shading and are partially obscured with watercolour. 

The exercise has three almost distinct parts. The instructions for the first part are:

Copy any of the simplest outlines, first with a soft pencil, following it, by the eye, as nearly as you can; if it does not look right in proportions, rub out and correct it, always by the eye, till you think it is right.

I picked an image of a Tulip. 

Tulipa Sylvestris, The Wild Tulip

This is my first attempt at the outline:

Wild Tulip - Outline 1
The Elements of Drawing - Exercise 2
Pencil on Paper
25cm x 10cm (10" x 4")

The next step is 

lay tracing-paper on the book; on this paper trace the outline you have been copying, and apply it to your own; and having thus ascertained the faults, correct them all patiently, till you have got it as nearly accurate as may be. 

Instead of using tracing paper I overlayed the two drawings in Gimp (a free image editing package). This is my first outline (in red) superimposed on the original.

Assessing Outline 1

It took me 5 passes to get to this.

Assessing Outline 5

This is as accurate as I am going to achieve. Eventually, you get to a point of diminishing returns because depending on how you line up the drawings a part that looked good in the previous comparison, suddenly looks worse.

The third part is to draw the image in ink:

take a quill pen, not very fine at the point; rest your hand on a book about an inch and a half thick, so as to hold the pen long; and go over your pencil outline with ink, raising your pen point as seldom as possible, and never leaning more heavily on one part of the line than on another.

As soon as you can copy every curve slowly and accurately, you have made satisfactory progress; but you will find the difficulty is in the slowness. It is easy to draw what appears to be a good line with a sweep of the hand, or with what is called freedom; the real difficulty and masterliness is in never letting the hand be free, but keeping it under entire control at every part of the line.

The point of the exercise is:

The power to be obtained is that of drawing an even line slowly and in any direction

The pen should, as it were, walk slowly over the ground, and you should be able at any moment to stop it, or to turn it in any other direction, like a well-managed horse.

Ruskin bemoans:

 In most outline drawings of the present day, parts of the curves are thickened to give an effect of shade; all such outlines are bad,

I embraced the aim of the exercise, but I balked at the use of a quill and resting my hand on a book. I tried a variety of fountain pens and fineliners and contrived a hand position which allowed me to “hold the pen long” while lightly resting my wrist on the paper. The image at the top was drawn with a fineliner - which is probably cheating. My plan is to get the hang of using a fineliner for the exercise and then try using a dip pen.

The Elements of Drawing - Exercise 1

The Elements of Drawing - Exercise 1
Ink on Paper
18cm x 15.75cm (7" x 6.25")

I seem to be “drawn” to old art instruction books. John Ruskin (1819-1900) wrote "The Elements of Drawing" in 1856. It’s amazing to follow lessons written by a contemporary and friend of J. M. W. Turner (1775-1851).

I like that Ruskin is more interested in helping his readers to learn to love nature and appreciate great art than he is in teaching them to draw, but the book won’t be to everyone’s taste. The writing and overall tone is old fashioned and authoritarian.

The first exercise is to create blocks of smooth tone using a fine pointed steel nib. Ruskin recommends using “one of Gillott's lithographic crowquills”. Surprisingly, 170 years later, you can still buy these. I am using the 659 mapping nib which seems very fine and very stiff.

One of Gillott's lithographic crowquills

You draw boxes and fill them in with crossed lines “so completely and evenly that it shall look like a square patch of gray silk or cloth, cut out and laid on the white paper”.

If areas of the square are too light, you darken them by drawing more lines or dots. If areas of the square are too dark, you “use the edge of your penknife very lightly, and for some time, to wear it softly into an even tone”. 

This is all more difficult than it sounds. The nib and the knife are both difficult to master. Every time you darken an area by adding more ink, the overall tone of the square gets darker. Every time you try to lighten the tone with the penknife, the paper gets rougher and becomes more unpredictable in how it takes ink. Eventually the paper becomes so rough that further improvement is impossible. 

It is difficult to know whether you've successfully completed the exercise. Initially, I thought my efforts were relatively poor when compared with the example for the exercise. 

The Elements of Drawing - Exercise 1

But the example is a dark square, which Ruskin acknowledges is easier to achieve than a lighter one. I flicked ahead to Exercise 3 in which you create a greyscale. 

The Elements of Drawing - Exercise 3

Parts of this look rougher than my efforts, so I’m calling Exercise 1 done and I will reevaluate my progress when I try the greyscale in Exercise 3.

The Creative License

20. Make It Yours
The Creative License
Gouache & Watercolour Pencil
Stillman & Birn Alpha Series Sketchbook
16.0cm x 16.0cm (6.25" x 6.25")

 On January 1, I started Danny Gregory’s course The Creative License

4. Childs Play
The Creative License
Graphite Pencil
Stillman & Birn Alpha Series Sketchbook
28.0cm x 20.0cm cm (11" x 8")

The course is billed as 

Your invitation to reconnect with your creativity. It’s not about mastering technical skills or creating flawless masterpieces. It’s about discovering the artist inside you and giving yourself permission to create—without fear, judgment, or expectations.

5. Reinventing Our Tools
The Creative License
Watercolour, Ink and Wax Crayon
Stillman & Birn Alpha Series Sketchbook
20.0cm x 28.0cm cm (8" x 11")

Danny based the course on his book of the same name (The Creative License). He expanded the concepts from the book into 31 lessons, one for each day of the month.

11. It's Complicated
The Creative License
Watercolour & Ink
Stillman & Birn Alpha Series Sketchbook
28.0cm x 20.0cm cm (11" x 8")

The lessons are about:

• Overcoming the fear and self-doubt about making art.
• Experimenting, trying new things and embracing joyful, messy, playfulness.
• Integrating creativity into your daily life.

14. Scent & Art
The Creative License
Watercolour, Gouache, Marker and Wax Crayon
Stillman & Birn Alpha Series Sketchbook
28.0cm x 20.0cm cm (11" x 8")

The course was a revitalising start to the year. Everything was going well until the 29th, when I slipped on some icy decking, tore a hamstring (badly), blacked an eye and gave Elaine an unpleasant shock when she found me unconscious at the bottom of the stairs. It’s taken a while, but I'm recovering and finished the last few exercises.

29. Integration Challenge
The Creative License
Gouache
Stillman & Birn Alpha Series Sketchbook
16.0cm x 16.0cm (6.25" x 6.25")

The pictures on this post are my favourite pieces from the course. The one at the top and this last one are loose copies of Kurt Jackson pictures. They are significant because they don’t look like anything I’ve created before. They indicate a direction I want to explore.

Foliage

In The Woods At Night
Watercolour on Paper
16.5cm x 24.5cm (6.5" x 9.5")

Foliage is the fifth topic in the Tree Techniques chapter of Creating Textures in Pen & Ink with Watercolor by Claudia Nice. 

In one of her examples she shades around some leaves to make them pop out of the picture. This reminded me of a layering technique John Lovett explains in his Textures, Techniques & Special Effects for Watercolor.  He uses negative painting to create the impression of layers of objects stacking on top of each other. Your start with a light wash, then you paint everything that’s not in the top layer with a slightly darker wash, then everything that’s not in the top 2 layers with a darker wash again, and so on. Once you have built up the layers, you go back to add texture and details.

The picture at the top of the post is based on 8 layers. Before I started painting, I painstakingly worked out the shape of what I was painting in each layer. 

In The Woods At Night - Layer 3

This is the third layer. The black is the area that I am not painting over. 

In The Woods At Night - Layer 4

This is the 4th layer. You paint less and less in each layer. Each time you paint an object it gets darker and recedes further into the shadows. I've been meaning to try this for years, so it's exciting to finally give it a try.

Happy Christmas 2024

 

Christmas Tree 2024
Ink and Watercolour
Stillman & Birn Alpha Series Sketchbook
14.0cm x 8.9cm (5.5" x 3.5")

Happy Christmas and Best Wishes for 2025

This is our Christmas Tree. It is 48cm (19") tall from the bottom of the pot. We can't get at our usual decorations (it's a long story), so we are down sizing. Sorry for not posting much this year. Normal service should be resumed in 2025.

Distant and Background Trees

Background Trees - Claudia Nice
Watercolour & Ink
Stillman & Birn Beta Series Sketchbook
11cm x 9cm (4.5" x 3.5")

Distant and Background Trees are the sixth and seventh topic in the Tree Techniques chapter of Creating Textures in Pen & Ink with Watercolor by Claudia Nice. It’s a few months since I’ve picked up Claudia’s book. An exercise from Liz Steel’s SketchingNow Watercolour on Location course inspired me to return. By chance, I’ve picked it up at almost the same point as I left off.

In an exercise about common landscape elements, Liz suggests studying how other artists paint and draw the subject. The first topic on the list is trees, providing the perfect opportunity to revisit Claudia's book.

Distant Trees - Claudia Nice
Watercolour
Stillman & Birn Beta Series Sketchbook
15cm x 14cm (6" x 5.5")

I made some notes about Claudia’s treatment of distant and background trees and tried to copy a couple of her examples. 

Middle Distance Trees - John Lovett
Watercolour & Ink
Stillman & Birn Beta Series Sketchbook
14cm x 11cm (5.5" x 4.5")

I also looked at advice from John Lovett. I studied his suggestions about trees in Textures, Techniques & Special Effects for Watercolor and Getting Started and tried to copy some of his examples.

Tree - John Lovett
Watercolour
Stillman & Birn Beta Series Sketchbook
15cm x 14cm (6" x 5.5")

I’m pleased to get back to Claudia’s book and intend to continue learning from her content.

Sketching From Nature

Lump of Moss
Ink and Watercolour
Stillman & Birn Alpha Series Sketchbook
14.0 x 20.3cm cm (5.5" x 8.0")

Since October 2023, I've been reading a section of the Curious Nature Guide by Clare Walker Leslie each week and using it as the inspiration for a sketching exercise. 

Rosemary
Ink and Watercolour
Stillman & Birn Alpha Series Sketchbook
14.0 x 20.3cm cm (5.5" x 8.0")

Using a prompt for what to sketch is helpful for a couple of reasons: 

• It cuts down the time I need to procrastinate about what to draw.
• It encourages me to try subjects I might not have otherwise chosen.

Early Autumn
Ink and Watercolour
Stillman & Birn Alpha Series Sketchbook
14.0 x 20.3cm cm (5.5" x 8.0")

The sketches have been of varying quality, but the results aren't that important. What matters is the time I've spent drawing and intently studying a subject. The pictures on this post are my favourites. You can see all 13 sketches on my YouTube channel (Sketching From Nature – Getting Started).

Lavender
Ink and Watercolour
Stillman & Birn Alpha Series Sketchbook
20.3 x 14.0cm cm (8.0" x 5.5")

My motivation for drawing at least one sketch from life a week is to make sure I keep training my hand eye coordination and the skills to accurately draw a subject. I want sketching from nature to be a reason to get outside and explore. I would like to become more knowledgeable and to develop a joyful appreciation of my environment. I'm keen to visually document my feelings about a place; the mood, the atmosphere and other things that a camera doesn't always capture. The sketches can then be a source of inspiration and reference material for paintings.

Branches

 

Woodchester Beech
Watercolour on Paper
24.5cm x 15.5cm (9.75" x 6")

Branches is the fourth topic in the Tree Techniques chapter of Creating Textures in Pen & Ink with Watercolor by Claudia Nice.

This post has been a long time coming. The topics in this chapter are continuing to be challenging and educational. I made a few false starts on this subject trying to paint winter trees in sunsets. I’ve also been distracted by my new YouTube channel - Mark Bateman Art.

There are two videos about this painting: 

• Creating a Blurred Soft-Focus Background in Watercolour 
• Painting a Textured 3-Dimensional Tree in Watercolour

The blurred soft-focused background is painted with the same technique I used in the post about painting A Fuzzy Background.

I gave the tree some form with a modelling wash (mostly light grey with some dark in the shadows) and then slowly built up the shape and texture in layers using drybrush.

The finishing touch was to add some foreground leaves in gouache.

Hopefully, creating videos will become less time consuming and I will be able to get back to drawing and painting.

Roots

Roots
Watercolour on Paper
24.5cm x 15.5cm (9.75" x 6")

Roots is the third topic in the Tree Techniques chapter of Creating Textures in Pen & Ink with Watercolor by Claudia Nice.

The topics in this chapter are challenging and educational. They are providing the perfect opportunity to experiment with and to develop a feel for drybrush technique. The key skill seems to be patience. I made quite a few mistakes with this picture, but I managed to correct some of them and making mistakes is a good way to learn.

James Gurney recently published an interesting post about Andrew Wyeth's use of drybrush (see What did Andrew Wyeth mean by "drybrush?").

Hardwood Tree Bark

Beech Tree Bark?
Watercolour on Paper
24.5cm x 15.5cm (9.75" x 6")

Hardwood Tree Bark is the second topic in the Tree Techniques chapter of Creating Textures in Pen & Ink with Watercolor by Claudia Nice. 

Pretty sure this is some kind of Beech tree, but I have to put more effort into identifying trees. I should start by making notes about what I photograph as Elaine, Doris, and I wander around Westonbirt Arboretum (Will I ever learn - I took some photos today and still forgot to take notes).

All the texture on this tree was created using dry brush. This was a break through because until now I’ve struggled with the technique. I also used a masking fluid applicator to reserve some highlights. This is the most delicate use of masking fluid I’ve achieved, so I am pleased with the purchase (see Drawing and Painting the Landscape - Masking). 

You may have noticed I’ve not been posting as regularly as usual, this is because I am distracted by a side project. I’ve started a YouTube channel - Mark Bateman Art.If you are interested, please take a look.

Conifer Tree Bark

Conifer Tree Bark
Watercolour on Paper
24.5cm x 15.5cm (9.75" x 6")

Conifer Tree Bark is the first topic in the Tree Techniques chapter of Creating Textures in Pen & Ink with Watercolor by Claudia Nice. 

Claudia uses Indian Ink to draw the heavily textured bark in her examples and then tints them with watercolour. I tried this approach, but it didn’t turn out satisfactorily because my tree is less textured and a much lighter in tone than her subjects. 

The picture on this post is my second attempt. This time, I painted the tree with light watercolour washes and added the bark pattern with dry brush work and sponged texture. This version is better, but now the bark is not conspicuous enough. This chapter is looking like hard work and I am expecting to learn a lot.

Driftwood

 

Driftwood Sculpture
Watercolour on Paper
16.5cm x 24cm (6.5" x 9.5")

Driftwood is the last topic in the Wood Grain Patterns chapter of  Creating Textures in Pen & Ink with Watercolor by Claudia Nice. 

We don’t live near the sea and the only piece of driftwood knocking around is in this sculpture by Mike Lythgoe. I’ve drawn it once before – back in 2015 (see January 2015 Sketches). 

Studying the piece intensely has helped me to appreciate it even more. I don’t think I had really noticed the shadows until I sat down to paint it.

Old Wooden Structures

Winery Barns
Watercolour on Paper
16.5cm x 24cm (6.5" x 9.5")

Old Wooden Structures is the sixth and penultimate topic in the Wood Grain Patterns chapter of Creating Textures in Pen & Ink with Watercolor by Claudia Nice. 

These are some barns at one of the wineries in Niagara on the Lake. I took the photo in 2011, so I can’t be sure which winery and I suspect the barns have gone. The one on the right was the tasting room.

I cross referenced Claudia’s guidance with suggestions from John Lovett‘s book Textures, Techniques and Special Effects for Watercolor; which is sadly out of print.

Painting the texture of the timbers was harder than I expected even with two sources of advice - I need more practice.

Drawing and Painting the Landscape – Masking

Dart Moorings
Watercolour on Paper
15.5cm x 23.5cm (6" x 9.25")

Lesson 36 of Drawing and Painting the Landscape by Philip Tyler starts with a discussion of masking and then introduces a number of other watercolour topics.

Masking is the technique of using a fluid (rubber solution) or tape to preserve the white of the paper. You could just carefully paint around the white areas, but masking them makes life easier. I wrote about this approach recently (see A Fuzzy Background).

Some people never use masking because it can cause problems. Most notably, the edges created by masking can appear too hard and prominent. Masking fluid is also notorious for wrecking brushes. You have to use an old brush and protect the bristles by covering them in soap; which can make it difficult to apply the masking fluid accurately. It can also tear the paper if you leave it too long before removing it.

In honour of this lesson, I bought a fine tipped masking fluid applicator (Jackson's Masking Fluid Applicator) to mask the boats in this painting. It was the least stressful masking fluid experience I can remember.

A monochrome study of this scene in which the horizon was much lower (see Drawing and Painting the Landscape – Monochrome Study) made me suspect the composition would work better with more water and less sky.

Dart Moorings -  Thumbnail Sketch - 6.5cm x 10cm (2.5" x 4")
Pencil on Paper
Stillman & Birn Alpha Series Sketchbook

A thumbnail helped to confirm this before committing to paint.

Aged Wooden Shakes

Woodchester Park Boathouse
Watercolour on Paper
16.5cm x 24cm (6.5" x 9.5")

Aged Wooden Shakes is the fifth topic in the Wood Grain Patterns chapter of Creating Textures in Pen & Ink with Watercolor by Claudia Nice.

I searched locally for wooden shakes (roof tiles), I couldn’t find any, so I made do with tile-stones (a traditional roofing material that can look more like wood than stone).

Stone Shed
Watercolour on Paper
16.5cm x 24cm (6.5" x 9.5")

I applied some texture to the tiles using natural sponges (I've used the technique before with stone, see Volcanic Rock, Marble and Sandstone). The dark background tone of the shed roof and ivy made it difficult to add texture in watercolour. Lesson learnt, I initially painted the boathouse roof lighter than the tone I was aiming for, so the texture is more noticeable and the resulting tone is more accurate. 

Polperro Cottages

Polperro Cottages
Watercolour on Paper
15.5cm x 23.5cm (6" x 9.25")

Last summer, Elaine, Doris and I spent a few days in Talland Bay, Cornwall to celebrate my birthday. It's a short walk along the costal path to Polperro in one direction and Looe in the other.

We all enjoyed the walk to and from Polperro, but our walk to Looe was less successful. It was a scorching hot day and Doris insisted on a taxi ride home (see Holiday Sketches).

Polperro is photogenic, but my photos didn't capture exactly what I wanted to paint. Some 7cm x 10cm thumbnails helped to explore and improve a composition. The initial pencil thumbnail was useful for deciding on the placement and configuration of shapes. It would have been handy if it had also given a definitive statement about dark, light and mid-toned shapes (see John Lovett - Thumbnail Sketches). I will include a 3 value tonal study when I next use thumbnails.

Polperro Cottages  – 7cm x 10cm (2.75" x 4") Thumbnail Sketches
Pencil and Watercolour on Paper
Stillman & Birn Alpha Series Sketchbook

The painting respects the spirit of the thumbnails except for the colour of the water. I prefer the turquoise in the second thumbnail, but if I try to adjust the painting, there is a chance I will spoil the reflections, so I will stick with what I have.

Drawing and Painting the Landscape – Monochrome Study

Moorings on the Dart
Monochrome Study - Drawing and Painting the Landscape
Watercolour on Paper
16.5cm x 24cm (6.5" x 9.5")

Chapter 7 of  Drawing and Painting the Landscape by Philip Tyler is about painting. Philip provides an introduction to a variety of media and techniques. The first is watercolour which he suggests is a big mistake for beginners because:

Watercolour is the most difficult painting medium to use well as it is unforgiving, allowing you little room for error.

He also points out:

It is a good idea to create a crisp linear drawing to establish the placement of the key elements of the landscape. 

This advice made me realise I’ve let my drawing practice slip and I need to do something about it.

Lesson 35 is a monochrome study in watercolour. Phillip recommends monochromes as a way to get started with watercolour while avoiding the additional complexity of having to think about colour.

The exercise is similar to Lesson 18 Wash Media, but in watercolour instead of ink. It provided an opportunity to experiment with the composition and approach for two pictures I am planning to paint. In both of them, I overdid the masking fluid and applied it too clumsily – lesson learnt.

The study of the boats on the Dart helped me to work out how to build up the layers of the landscape and how to paint the distant background..

Tree Tunnel - Westonbirt
Monochrome Study - Drawing and Painting the Landscape
Watercolour on Paper
16.5cm x 24cm (6.5" x 9.5")

I wasn’t sure the tree tunnel would work without a lot of painstaking detail. The monochrome has persuaded me it will

Thumbnail Sketches

Aged Fencing - Preliminary Thumbnail Sketch - 15cm x 10cm (6" x 4")
Ink and Pencil on Paper
Stillman & Birn Alpha Series Sketchbook

Many art teachers and authors stress the importance of using quick thumbnail sketches to check and improve a composition before investing too much time and material in a painting that is doomed to fail – (see John Lovett - Thumbnail Sketches).

I used this approach recently while preparing for the Aged Fencing topic in Creating Textures in Pen & Ink with Watercolor by Claudia Nice.

Over the summer, I collected a load of reference photos while out walking with Elaine and Doris. 

Aged Fencing

This stile has the makings of an interesting subject, but the composition can probably be improved. I drew a couple of simple thumbnails to explore some ideas using a rectangle with the same proportion as the paper I will paint on. 

Aged Fencing - Preliminary Thumbnail Sketch - 7.5cm x 5cm (3" x 2")
Ink on Paper
Stillman & Birn Alpha Series Sketchbook

Thumbnail sketches are also a good way to find the challenges in the drawing. These highlighted the importance of perspective on the step. If the step is out of whack, it upsets the whole picture.

I drew the slightly larger version at the top of the page to finalize the composition and to think about the tones in the picture. I will do a couple of simple colour studies before starting to paint.