Drawing and Painting the Landscape – Glazing (Part 2)

The Lakes - Winter Morning
Acrylic on Paper
19cm x 19cm (7.5" x 7.5")

Drawing and Painting the Landscape - Glazing describes my initial experiences with Lesson 43 of Drawing and Painting the Landscape by Philip Tyler. It explains how I tried to paint this scene using watery washes of acrylic. My first effort was garish and after that they became uglier and uglier. After many attempts, I accepted the need to try something different, so I went back to Phillip’s suggestion of painting over an existing study – which is a much better way to get started.

The Lakes - Winter Morning
Initial Underpainting

I painted this monochrome underpainting (a grisaillle) using Payne's Grey and Titanium White. I then adjusted the picture using a mixture of layering and glazing. If the tone needed to change (like in the sky or extreme foreground), I glazed over it with a semi-transparent layer. If the underlying shapes (like the foreground slope) needed to change, I obscured the original with an opaque layer. 

The Lakes - Winter Morning
Refined Underpainting

After refining the study, I glazed over it with colour. This worked a lot better than my previous attempt at using an underpainting technique (see Drawing and Painting the Landscape – Underpainting).

By painting this image repeatedly for months, I’ve learnt more about handling acrylic paint, but at the expense of letting my compositional skills atrophy. I need to focus on quantity not quality of paintings for a while because each time you finish a painting, you’ve gone through the whole process from finding a subject and creating a composition all the way through to finishing the painting. This helps to improves all your skills - not just one of them. There is evidence that if you focus on quantity, quality begins to take care of itself.

The Elements of Drawing - Exercise 2 (Take 3)

Narcissus - Common Daffodil
The Elements of Drawing - Exercise 2
Ink on Paper
23cm x 15cm (9" x 6")

This is my third go at Exercise 2 from John Ruskin’s The Elements of Drawing (see The Elements of Drawing - Exercise 2 and The Elements of Drawing - Exercise 2 (Take 2)). I repeated the exercise as I worked on exercises 3 (The Elements of Drawing - Exercise 3) and 4. I followed the same steps as in my previous attempts:

Chose an illustration from British Phænogamous Botany; Or, Figures and Description of The Genera of British Flowering Plants. 

Narcissus - Common Daffodil

Copied the outline as closely as possible with a soft pencil on to a piece of scrap paper. 

Narcissus - Common Daffodil
The Elements of Drawing - Exercise 2
Pencil on Paper
23cm x 15cm (9" x 6")

Used Gimp (a free image editing package) to compare my drawing (in red) with the original. This is the most complex example I've tried. The comparison identified the need for more significant alterations than in my previous attempts.

Assessing Outline 1

Corrected my outline (by eye) based on the comparison. 

Made another comparison and repeated the correct and compare steps until I reached a reasonable level of accuracy (this is my sixth and final version). 

Assessing Outline 6

Transferred my drawing to a clean piece of paper (using a lightbox) and then drew over it in ink (the outline at the top of the post is the result).

I still can’t get on with Ruskin’s suggestion for the last step:

rest your hand on a book about an inch and a half thick, so as to hold the pen long; and go over your pencil outline with ink, raising your pen point as seldom as possible, and never leaning more heavily on one part of the line than on another.

I can’t draw with any fluidity while resting my hand on a book. Instead, I don’t rest my hand on anything. I try to hold the pen (a fineliner) so that it barely touches the paper and then draw from my shoulder while maintaining the slow control that Ruskin demands – its tricky.

The Elements of Drawing - Exercise 3

The Elements of Drawing - Exercise 3
Ink on Paper
10cm x 18cm (4" x 7")

Exercise 3 from John Ruskin’s The Elements of Drawing is an extension to Exercise 1.

Ruskin says:

"As soon as you find you have some command of the pen as a shading instrument, and can lay a pale or dark tint as you choose, try to produce gradated spaces like Fig. 2"

The Elements of Drawing - Exercise 3

The instructions are 

"Draw, therefore, two parallel lines for limits to your work, and try to gradate the shade evenly from white to black, passing over the greatest possible distance, yet so that every part of the band may have visible change in it."

My lines were wobbly because I drew them free hand, without flattening the page - which was a mistake. The exercise would be easier with properly straight and parallel lines. After that, the exercise went  smoothly. One skill I improved was my ability to remove ink using 

"the edge of your penknife very lightly, and for some time,"

During Exercise 1, I was scratching the paper which made adding more ink difficult. In this exercise, I managed to scrape off ink without creating any noticeable damage. It seemed like I could have carried on for a lot longer adding and removing ink. Eventually, I stopped because I couldn’t tell whether I was improving the gradations or making them worse.

Ruskin says

"The perception of gradation is very deficient in all beginners (not to say, in many artists), and you will probably, for some time, think your gradation skilful enough, when it is quite patchy and imperfect."

He emphasizes: 

"Nearly all expression of form, in drawing, depends on your power of gradating delicately"

And suggests

"look for gradated spaces in Nature. …

At last, when your eye gets keen and true, you will see gradation on everything in Nature."

Happy Christmas 2025

Elf on a Mission
Watercolour & Ink
Stillman & Birn Alpha Series Sketchbook
14.0cm x 8.9cm (5.5" x 3.5")

Wishing You a Happy Christmas and a Wonderful 2026

Drawing and Painting the Landscape - Glazing

Country Landscape
(Based on Don Rankin's Mastering Glazing Techniques in Watercolor)
Acrylic on Paper
14cm x 14cm (5.5" x 5.5")

Lesson 43 of Drawing and Painting the Landscape by Philip Tyler is about Glazing techniques. Philip defines a glaze as a thin layer of transparent paint used to modify the colour or tone of a painting. It’s a bit like adding a filter in a photo editing app. You can use glazes to warm things up, cool them down or otherwise alter the atmosphere of a picture. You can glaze the whole painting or just a part of it.

Phillip suggests glazing over some of you existing studies. I didn’t have anything suitable, so I tried a more ambitious exercise. I attempted to create a painting entirely with glazes using the techniques described for watercolour by Don Rankin in Mastering Glazing Techniques in Watercolor. 

The Lakes - Winter Morning
Acrylic on Paper
19cm x 19cm (7.5" x 7.5")

This was my first effort. It’s interesting, but far from what I intended. After that, things went downhill. As I tried to reduce the vibrancy, my attempts got uglier and uglier. The main challenges are the intensity and opaqueness of acrylics when compared to watercolour. You need to thin the acrylic to an almost homeopathic level of dilution to get anything like a watery watercolour wash and even then, it still doesn’t behave like watercolour. After 6 attempts, I accepted I needed a simpler subject, so I went back to the exercises from Don’s books (see Glazing Techniques). I enjoyed painting them and they provided an opportunity to experiment with different cocktails of water, glazing medium and flow improver.

Sea Mist
(Based on Don Rankin's Mastering Glazing Techniques in Watercolor)
Acrylic on Paper
14cm x 14cm (5.5" x 5.5")

I still prefer my original watercolour versions, but I am beginning to see how I can apply these techniques to acrylics and I’m looking forward to getting back to the picture I wanted to paint.

The Elements of Drawing - Exercise 2 (Take 2)

Mistletoe
The Elements of Drawing - Exercise 2
Ink on Paper
23cm x 16.5cm (9" x 6.5")

This is my second go at Exercise 2 from John Ruskin’s The Elements of Drawing (see The Elements of Drawing - Exercise 2). I followed the same variation of the exercise as last time:

Chose an illustration from British Phænogamous Botany; Or, Figures and Description of The Genera of British Flowering Plants. 

Viscum_Album, Mistletoe

Copied the outline as closely as I could with a soft pencil on to a piece of scrap paper.

Mistletoe
The Elements of Drawing - Exercise 2
Pencil on Paper
23cm x 16.5cm (9" x 6.5")

Used Gimp (a free image editing package) to compare my drawing (in red) with the original.

Assessing Outline 1

Corrected my outline based on the feedback from the comparison. 

Made another comparison and repeated the correct and compare steps until I reached a reasonable level of accuracy (this is my fifth and final version).

Assessing Outline 5

Transferred my drawing to a clean piece of paper (using a lightbox) and then drew over it in ink (the outline at the top of the post is the result).

The exercise provides good practice for drawing by eye. It offers an opportunity to think about and test different strategies to obtain an accurate result.

For the last step, Ruskin suggests:

rest your hand on a book about an inch and a half thick, so as to hold the pen long; and go over your pencil outline with ink, raising your pen point as seldom as possible, and never leaning more heavily on one part of the line than on another.

I can’t get on with resting my hand on a book. In my first attempt I contrived a hand position which allowed me to “hold the pen long” while lightly resting my wrist on the paper. This time I didn’t rest my hand on anything. I tried to draw from my shoulder and maintain the slow control that Ruskin demands. The crux (for me) is to hold the pen so that it barely touches the paper. This allows it to easily move in any direction without catching on the paper. I am still using a fineliner - which is cheating because it is far move forgiving than a nib and less likely to catch or cause a blot if you hesitate.

Drawing and Painting the Landscape - Scumbling and Drybrush

First Light
Acrylic on Paper
19cm x 19cm (7.5" x 7.5")

I combined lesson 41 and 42 of Drawing and Painting the Landscape by Philip Tyler.

Lesson 41 is about Scumbling - the application of paint as a broken layer. Philp suggests scrubbing the paint on to the surface. This:

"causes the paint to go on really thinly, making for an optically porous surface (the ground comes through)."

Other writers describe scumbling techniques using “a drybrush and a loose hand” or rags.

Lesson 42 is about Drybrush – carefully dragging a brush with almost dry pigment over the painting surface to create a broken layer of fine marks.

Philip differentiates drybrush as being more controlled than scumbling. Both techniques create the impression of texture and depth by building up broken layers of paint. They can be used to achieve a blurred or soft appearance. 

I’ve experimented with drybrush in watercolour to give the impression of textures such as tree bark (see Branches, Roots, Hardwood Tree Bark, Conifer Tree Bark, Wood Grain, Volcanic Rock and Silver Birch).

In watercolour you are helped if you use a rough paper because the brush catches and leaves paint on the ridges, but not in the valleys. I am finding it trickier with acrylics because I am painting on a smooth surface. I suspect the trick is either to use a rougher surface or to roughen the surface with an unevenly applied gesso or impasto layer.

In the picture at the top of this post, I started off with scumbling and progressed towards drybrush in later layers, particularly on and around the boats.

Philp suggested experimenting with a dark ground.

Dark Ground and Drawing

I like the effect of the white pencil drawing on the umber background. I nearly decided this was finished.